Dharma Hot Water Reactive Dyes

Ebony Black is great and for tie-dye I haven't even needed to treat it differently since I usually batch things for a day (or whenever I feel like rinsing the item) in cold weather. Dissolving the roughly 10g 8oz. I use is much easier than 20g of MX blacks and at its price it's a no-brainer.The Scarlet is listed on SDS as KeyReact Scarlet E-2GA... aka Drimarene Scarlet K-2G. Drimarene K dyes only want 10C warmer than MX and are usually considered cold dyes as far as tie-dye goes. You shouldn't need to let this one react any longer than your MX dyes if the temps are similar. The price is offset by only needing 2-2.5g of it per 8oz for full saturationI've had bad luck with the Emerald mix so far... It comes out a barely-greener than turquoise color and fairly unsaturated. Assuming it's made with the Turquoise ( KeyReact Turquoise Blue VS-G a vinyl sulfone remazol requiring higher temps than the others in this family ) and the primary yellow (Remazol Bright Yellow 4GL) there are a few problems:1) A manufacturer of both dyes recommends 50-80gL of Glauber's Salt for full saturation.2) Although the yellow will work without too much heat given time (or 60C for 60 minutes) the fabric needs to be more basic. For dyebaths they suggest addition of 3-5gL of NaOH and possibly Trisodium Phosphate instead of soda ash for all vinyl sulfones3) Like MX Turquoise Remazol Turqouise needs even higher temps... Their recommendation in addition to the bit of lye is 80C (176F) for 60 minutes. I've managed to hold it above that temp for long periods using a microwave and still had poor saturation and a mainly blue color. I'll be trying the NaOH thing next time as I suspect it's the only way the vinyl sulfones will fully react without a pressure cooker or steam. I'm only guessing at the mixture but it fits what I'm seeing.The neutral grey is neutral given long reaction times without elevated temps. One fun trick with it is to either freeze the solution into ice cubes or set up a drip of it onto MX colors as with ice dyeing. The MX has a little bit of time to react before the grey gets going and you end up with soft muted pastels that look very nice.I have some of the brilliant blue (Novacron brilliant blue E-G formerly Cibracron br blue FN-G) on order. I've used this type of dye before and it works fine given either heat or long batching times and wants 50C. Of note is that this is one of a couple of dyes (the other is an MX navy that I don't believe Dharma carries) that has "causes serious eye damage" in the SDS. With the navy it was permanent staining but this one is also listed as corrosive so it might be a result of that. Not the nastiest dye out there by far but I'll be wearing goggles measuring that powder....I'll post another review if I grab more colors. :)

I used the Neutral Grey to dye 100% cotton and cotton canvas. While I did find that the colour was consistent I would not call this grey "neutral" at all. It is very blue I would call it blue-grey if anything. Its still a nice colour and the product worked well I just felt like the name wasn't accurate and the colour they do show on the site isn't a great indicator of the tone of the dye. Also read about how to dye your fabric before you make your purchase. There are products like Calsolene Oil (and even salt) that I didn't realize we necessary or helpful until after I had made my order.

817 Neutral Grey is lovely! Batched it for about 48 hrs to be sure (Sweden) and I got a very nice and pure grey.

The black came out really well and with little effort! Love it and will come back for more

Way better than cold water reactive dyes. Well mercerized cotton or cotton blends will not dye strongly with usual reactive dyes. I left the socks for 48h placing the container (an old jar for epsom salts) in a tray of hot water every 12h and covering it. The intensity of color is impressing.