HOW IT'S DONE:
Step 1: How much "size" do I need?
Step 2: Making a frame
Step 3: Preparing the size
Step 4: Reusing the size
Step 5: Preparing the fabric
Step 6: Floating the paints
Step 7: Making the designs
Step 8: Applying it to your fabric
Step 9: Making it colorfast
Step 10: Cleaning up
Step 11: Troubleshooting
Step 12: This is not the whole story!
HOW MUCH SIZE DO I NEED?
To do fabric that's 36" x 36" you'll need a frame 38" x 38" filled about 2" deep which requires about 7 gallons of size. To do fabric that's 18" x 72" you'll need a frame 20" x 74" also using 7 Gal. of size. A roasting pan filled 2" deep uses less than a gallon. Remember you'll have to change the size periodically.
Use about 3 TBS of Alum per quart of water to pre-soak for fabric. Estimate how many quarts you need to soak your items and this will tell you how much Alum you need. Careful! Too much or too long rots the fabric!
The paints are thinned with water before use so you use less than when painting directly.
MAKING A FRAME
If you are doing fabric or clothing larger than available pans, it's easy to build a pan using some 1" x 4" wood. Nail together a frame without top or bottom and just line it with some heavy plastic. You can make the frame any size you need.
PREPARING THE "SIZE"
The first thing you need to do is to make the size onto which you are going to float the fabric paints. This is best done 24 hours before it is going to be used. Add the Carrageen slowly to the water as you stir it. Start with about 2 TBS (1/8 cup) of Carageenan per gallon of warm water. Make sure it's fully dissolved, then refrigerate for 24 hours to obtain the best viscosity and to allow trapped air bubbles to rise to the surface.
Before use it needs to be warmed to room temperature. The tray/container should have at least 2 inches of "size" in it. How big the tray needs to be depends on how big the objects are that you want to lie flat on the size surface. For earrings you can use a small one, while for T-shirts you need a bigger one. It can be anything from an aluminum-roasting pan to a child's wading pool. Or make one as described above.
How thick the "size" needs to be will vary with the brand of paint being used and the effects you wind up liking best. Add Carrageen to thicken the size if needed or add water to thin it if necessary.
Just before adding the paints, skim off any film that has formed on the surface of the "size" by dragging a strip of newspaper from one end to the other.
Hard and Soft Water
Most books suggest using distilled water. That could mean a lot of bottled water to buy. Try it first with tap or filtered water. If the water in your area is "hard" (contains lots of minerals) you will need to add some of our Water Softener. Hard water will interfere with the process.
REUSING THE "SIZE"
The "size" can be used over and over again. It can be kept for 3 to 4 days at room temperature before it begins to mold and must be discarded. To keep it longer, refrigerate. (Mark and tape the container clearly so it is not eaten.) Warm it to room temperature before using. If the "size" has been sitting awhile, clear the surface of tension and dust with strips of newspaper before using.
PREPARING THE FABRIC
Pre-wash the fabric with Synthrapol or regular fabric detergent and dry. This will wash out anything that is likely to prevent the paint from sticking. Dissolve 3 TBS of Alum per quart of hot water. Cool to room temperature. Dip the fabric into the alum solution or if necessary, sponge it on very thoroughly. Lay it out flat to air dry. The fabric must be treated and must be dry before it is marbled. It is best to use the treated pieces within 24 hours. If you can't, then wash out the alum and try again another time. Careful! Too much or too long rots the fabric!
FLOATING THE PAINTS
Thin the paints to the consistency of whole milk in a paper cup. With an eye dropper, lay the paint on the surface of the "size" as gently as possible. The drop should spread out to a circle 2 to 3 inches in size. As the paint spreads out on the surface some may sink to the bottom - it's ok as long as most of it stays on the surface. If too much seems to be sinking, thin the paint a bit more or add a drop or two of our Dispersant. If the drop spreads out too far, thicken the paint. Keep adding paint to the surface until they seem intense.
The order in which you drop the paints directly affects the look of the finished piece. The first color ends up becoming thin and intense, while the last color is the most dominant and diffused.
As you add new colors, the ones added previously will intensify as they are pushed together. You can add new colors next to, or on top of the ones already there. The colors don't mix, but rather stay separate. You can remove the paint and start over by laying newspaper on the surface to pick up all the paint from the surface.
MAKING THE DESIGNS
With all the desired colors of paint on the surface, use a toothpick, a comb or straws, etc., to carefully create swirls and design patterns.
Anything goes when it comes to making your designs, in fact that's a main part of the fun. Going back and forth with a toothpick or chopstick will produce kind of chevron patterns. Using a wide spaced comb or sort of rake in one-direction gives an interesting series of rounded, repeating shapes. A series of spirals will result in a "snail motif." Dip a whisk or a bundle of broom straws to flick drops onto the surface. The droplets give a different effect.
You can create "negative" areas in the design by placing soapy water on the surface with an eye dropper or by sprinkling it on. Use 1/8 teaspoon of liquid soap to 1/2 cup of water. Use this like a "clear paint" in your designs. Or you can lay a shape (leaf, paper cut out, or other item) on the surface to block out that section of pattern.
APPLYING THE PAINTS TO YOUR FABRIC
Lay the fabric down onto the surface for 2-5 seconds and lift off. If you can, lay the middle down first and let the ends roll out onto the surface so no air is trapped underneath. Try to "peel" the fabric off the surface. Lay the item flat or hang and gently rinse with cold water to remove the alum and excess size. Now lay flat or hang to air dry. Don't wring or squeeze.
If you are doing two- sided items like T-shirts, cut a piece of cardboard to size and cover with plastic or Saran wrap and insert into the shirt. Do one side, re-do the colors and then do the other side.
After each "printing" you can either add more paint or clear the surface with newspaper and start a new design.
MAKING IT COLORFAST
When the item is completely dry, heat set using a commercial (laundry) dryer or by ironing. Follow the heatsetting instructions for the brand of paints you that you are using.
CLEANING UP
-Skim the surface of the marbling base with a strip of newspaper. If you're planning to reuse it soon, cover the paint mixture with plastic wrap or airtight lids. The base is usually good for more than one session.
-Rinse the marbling tools in lukewarm water without soap. Soap residue on tools can contaminate prints.
-Rinse the tray thoroughly in a sink. Again, do not use soap.
TROUBLESHOOTING
The marbling paints sink to the bottom of the tray.
-Marbling base is too thick. Add water to the base to thin it out. Skim, then re-apply marbling colors. Experiment with it to achieve the desired effect.
-Marbling colors are too thick. Add water to thin the colors, skim the marbling base, then test. You may need to add Synthrapol to the paints to improve its ability to spread and float.
The marbling colors spread too much.
-You might have added too much water or surfactant to the marbling color. Add more paint to balance it out.
-The marbling base might be too thin or old. Add 1 teaspoon of Methocel (Methocelulose) powder per gallon of solution, or throw out and start a new recipe.
The marbled print appears fuzzy.
-The marbling base is too thick. Add water to the marbling base, then re-apply paints.
-The marbling colors might be too thick. Thin the colors with water, then test.
-There was too much time spent between making the pattern and putting the fabric in the paint mixture. Work more quickly.
THIS IS NOT THE WHOLE STORY!
This sheet is just a quick introduction to the topic. There's a lot more to say and to know. We have a good book on the subject that goes into detail and can help you get good results. A good book makes all the difference.
The Ultimate Marbling Handbook by Diane Maurer-Mathison is one of the best out there.
The most frequent disaster is that the fabric falls apart at the end. It's from the Alum. Follow the instructions in your book.
As you may have surmised by now, marbling can be a messy project and therefore one which is best done where you have enough space to spread things out and with lots of newspapers on hand. It's a great outdoor project when weather permits!
