Traditionally, tie-dye is a pattern of color made by preventing the dye from
reaching some areas of the material while vat dyeing others. Folding, tying,
stitching, crumpling or otherwise preparing the fabric inhibits the flow of
the dye. Nowadays most folding, scrunching & twisting is done starting with
the wet shirt flat on a plastic covered table. The pattern of the folds etc.
and where the colors are squirted dictates the resulting design. Figure maybe
4 oz of dye liquid per average T-shirt. With experience, the end result can be
predicted and controlled to some extent, but surprise is part of what makes
tie-dye an exciting and interesting art form - and there will be plenty of
surprises.
1. Fold and/or
tie the fabric into the desired patterns.The designs will be more
defined if you wet the shirt and squeeze or spin out excess water
before folding.
2. Wear your
dust mask and dissolve 1 cup (8 oz.) of Soda Ash
Fixer per gallon of warm water. Soak the tied garments about 5-15
minutes (until saturated). Reuse solution until gone. Squeeze out
excess so garment is just damp, not dripping.
3. Using your
dust mask and gloves, combine water with all chemicals except dye. Add
liquid to dye gradually, pasting up to avoid lumps. Apply dye with
squeeze bottles, paint brushes, sponges, etc., as many colors as you
want. Easiest to use a funnel to pour dissolved dye into squeeze
bottles.
(A little to slow spreading, and control color, if desired.)
4. Put fabric
(still tied) in a plastic bag (the idea is to keep it wet and
chemically active - any method of keeping it wet is O.K.) and let sit
for at least 4 hours but preferably 24 hours to "cure". Shorter times
work better in summer, and longer times are needed when it is cold.
5. Remove from
bag and while still tied, rinse off the excess dye under cold running
water (faucet, hose or shower), then rinse in warmer water while you
untie and after garments are untied, until water runs fairly clear.
Have your washing machine pre-filled with hot water with
Synthrapol and throw in the
clothing as soon as it is rinsed, running it through a full cycle.
VARIATIONS & HELPFUL HINTS
Dye shirt a solid color first using Tub
Dyeing Method, then tie-dye using above method.
After step 4, untie and re-tie in contrasting pattern.
After tie-dyeing item, re-tie and use
Discharge paste to bleach out a
contrasting pattern.
Sprinkle pure Procion powder onto tied and
pre-soaked item for different effect (super intense color. Use a salt
shaker with lots of salt and some dye for a lighter application)
Put a small amount of Sodium
Alginate thickener into dye mixture (step 3) to slow down the rate
that the dye spreads and to create sharper edges.
In step 4 any method keeping the fabric wet is OK, needn't be a plastic
bag - cover many with plastic drop cloth, wrap in plastic wrap, etc. The
warmer the temperature where you lay out your tie-dyes to cure, the
quicker the chemical reaction.
Use Water Softener if you suspect
you have "hard" water.
DON'T USE HOT WATER. The dyes work best in warm water (105 degrees) except
#25, which can be used slightly warmer. #250 does like hot water and
doesn't do well for tie-dye.
Urea helps dye to dissolve, so dissolve the Urea in water first. Add this
water to the dye powder gradually and paste it up to avoid lumps.
Undissolved dye makes "explosions" of color or "freckles", so if a color is
difficult to dissolve, straining through some light fabric might be
necessary. Coffee filters only work if the dye is really liquid.
Otherwise, they filter out too much of the dye.
If you have trouble making a paste of the colors, a little
Calsolene Oil can help because
it breaks the surface tension.
Cover your work surfaces with old newspapers or folded paper towels to
absorb extra dye. Wear old clothes! After applying dye to one side, flip
garment over and repeat the process. Inject the tip of the squeeze bottle
into the folds for best dye penetration and less white on the final
product.
With this dye, there is always lots of "excess dye" to be washed out.
Don't crowd your washing machine with too much tie-dye or the water gets
too muddy and so will your tie-dyes. Delicate items like rayon and silk
are better hand washed or should go into a mesh bag on a gentle cycle so
the agitation doesn't shred them.
Fiber reactive dyes attach permanently to cellulose fibers using a covalent
(electron-sharing) bond. These molecules carry a "chromophore" which absorb
varying spectra of the light, allowing only certain spectra to reflect.
Covalent bonding is one of the most basic and strongest types of
chemical reactions. This reaction happens gradually over time depending on
temperature and/or the Ph level of the surrounding environment.
The Soda Ash pre-soak raises the pH level of the garment or fabric to
approximately 10.5. Raising the pH level of the solution that the fabric or
garment is soaked in raises the level of negative hydrogen ions in the
dyeing environment. The chemical bonding process uses these ions in the
reaction. Pre-soaking in Soda Ash fixer solution is what allows the fiber
reactive dyes to work at room temperature.
The reaction can also be aided with heat. Some tie-dyers have had success
with using baking soda and microwaving their dyed articles. Since baking
soda is a weaker alkali than Soda Ash, it must be accompanied by heat. Some
people who are "chemically sensitive" choose to use this method.
The dye is allowed to react in a desirable host environment for up to 24
hours. After this time, the bonding sites on the cellulose should be
saturated with dye molecules. Excess dye molecules that have not bonded
permanently are washed away using warm water rinse and a dye-carrying
detergent like Synthrapol.
You can request a refund or an exchange or a credit, as you wish. Just examine the contents of your order upon arrival and call us right away if you need to return something for any reason. You have 30 days from the invoice date to get an RA# (Return Authorization Number).
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